Ani, A Scribe

Plate 5, Ani, A Scribe

Plate V.,dating 1450 B.C., shows the same robe as Plate IV. worn in a different manner. In this case the garment is left open down the sides, the front half is taken and pinned at the back of the waist, and the back half is drawn towards the front and girded with a wide sash measuring 32″ x 120″, as shown in Plate V. and Figs. 6, 7, 8, and 9. It should be noted that Fig. 6 is a modem drawing of Plate V.; also the costume upon p. 19, which dates 2500 B.C., gives three different views of the same dress, a costume which emphasizes the love of the Egyptians for drawing up the dress tightly so as to define the limbs at the back and allowing great masses of drapery to fall in front to the feet. To adjust the sash or girdle on Plate V., commence at the right side of waist drawing the sash downwards to the left and round the hips at back, next draw upwards across the front from right to left and round waist at back and tuck the remaining length of sash in front as shown in Fig. 6.

Fig. 6, Robe, Draped and Girded

Fig. 7-9, Three Views of a draped robe

The God Osiris

Plate 4, The God Osiris

Plate IV. belongs to the next great division of Egyptian costume, which may be called the “Type of the Robe.” This illustration shows it in its simplest form—namely, ungirded. To understand the quaint Egyptian drawing of Plate IV. a reference to Fig. 5 is necessary, which is a modern drawing of the same costume. As will be seen from the plan. Fig. 5a, this garment consists of a piece of material twice the height of the figure and folded over in the middle; a hole is here cut for the neck and, in addition, a short slit down the front to allow of the garment being pulled over the head. The material is sewn up the sides from the bottom, leaving a space at the top for the passage of the arms. A garment similar in type to this is worn at the present day in Egypt and Syria, and also, strange to say, by the natives of Brazil. This robe should be compared with that worn by Darius, King of Persia, later in this volume.

Fig. 5 Type of the Robe

Fig. 5a

Egyptian dress decoration

Plate 3, Egyptian dress decoration

Plate III., It will be noticed that the Egyptian dress decoration is chiefly confined to the collar, which will be seen in wear on Plates V., VI., VIII., and X. The patterns were either embroidered, painted, beaded, or jewelled; the favorite lotus flower is almost always in evidence in the designs (see a, b, c, and d on Plate III.) On this plate also will be seen several other characteristic borders (f, g, h, i), and two all-over patterns (k, e), which were probably either stamped or tapestry-woven on the dress fabric. The coloring of these patterns is chiefly taken from painted representations of persons and ornaments. To arrive at the exact coloring used if the garments were decorated with dyed materials the description of the types of colors used in dyeing ancient Assyrian and Persian costumes, see p. 66, wiU give a more exact notion of what was worn. We have, in the British Museum, actual examples of dyed wools and colored beads used in dress decoration.

Rope ornaments of royal robes, ornaments of armor and mummy cases.

The ornaments are paintings of tombs from different parts of Egypt. They correspond to fabric samples or straw mats and on them were kings.

Ornaments of tombs in Thebes, Karnak

Plate II. Egyptian Queen

Plate 2, Ancient Egyptian Queen

Plate II,, which dates 1700 b.c. also first century b.c., is an exact copy of an Egyptian drawing of a woman wearing a species of tunic with braces (plan. Fig. 1). The striped decoration upon this tunic is suggested by the lines of another type of Egyptian dress— namely, the drawn-up skirt. The origin of the decoration can be easily understood by a reference to the drapery on Plate IX. In the original of this drawing the figure is represented with a lofty head-dress in addition to the fillet of ribbon and the golden asp here shown, but for the sake of getting the figure on a scale large enough to show clear details the head-dress is omitted. The person represented is said to be Cleopatra dressed as a goddess. Figs. 2, 3, and 4, dating 1700, 1500, and 3700 B.C. respectively, are wearing dresses of the first great type of Egypt costume—namely, the tunic type. They were made of fairly thick linen. Fig. 2 is put on by stepping into it and pulling it up. Figs. 3 and 4 are put on over the head; the measurements given will fit a slim figure without underclothing. The origin of Fig. 2 was most probably a piece of linen of the same length as this garment but wide enough to lap about half round the figure and have a piece tucked in at the top to keep it closed. This sort of tight drapery is quite commonly worn by negresses in Africa to-day. We also find it on some ancient Egyptian wooden statuettes, the drapery being of linen while the figure only is in wood.

Figure 1., Tunic with braces

Fig. 2-4 Tunic types

Plate I. Egyptian Goddess

Plate 1, Ancient Egyptian Goddess

Plate I., which dates 700 b.c., is an exact copy of an Egyptian drawing. It will be noticed that the Egyptian method of representing the figure is a peculiar one. A moderm representation of the same type of dress is shown in Fig. 2, and the plan of cutting in Fig. 2a. It should be noted that this plan—namely, a tunic with braces—is in some instances shown with the braces buttoned on each shoulder at the narrowest part. This illustration is given as a type of Egyptian dress decoration, which would be either printed, painted, or embroidered on the garment. It might be considered that this type of dress more nearly approaches the skirt than the tunic; but reaching, as it does, to the breastbone and comparing various examples which, as it were, gradually merge into the sleeveless tunic which again merges into the tunic with short sleeves, the present classification will be found to be the most convenient.

EGYPT COSTUME PLATES

Portrait of Prince Mantouhichopchf son of Ramses Miamun (XIXth. Dynasty)

Portrait of Ramses Miamun (Ramses II. – Nineteenth Dynasty)

Offering flowers & fruit (Necropolis of Thebes – XIXe.dynastie)

Length portrait of Ramses III (necropolis of Thebes – Twentieth Dynasty.)

Painting: Player of mandore (Nécrolpole Thebes – Eighteenth Dynasty.).

Writer, painted red limestone.

Painting: Portrait of Pharaoh Merenptah (Necropolis of Thebes – 19th dynasty.)

Painting: Return of the boat hunter (Beni Hasan – Twelfth Dynasty.)

Painting: Back of hunting (Necropolis of Thebes – 17th dynasty.)

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF ANCIENT EGYPTIAN COSTUMES

As far as the cutting out of ancient Egyptian costume is concerned, we may divide it broadly into four types namely: (1) The type of the tunic. (2) The type of the robe. (3) The type of the skirt, with or without cape. (4) The type of the shawl or drapery. The one or two varieties which occur in addition to these may be found in military dress and adaptations from the costumes of other countries. All the varieties above referred to are described in detail in this volume.

Iconic group of Tai (Ti) and his wife. Necropolis of Memphis (Fifth Dynasty)